In the Footsteps of the Ancients

Since ancient times, embarking on the voyage into Zanskar has been a difficult and time-honoured undertaking. Modern roads may now provide access, but tracing the pathways of old trade routes on foot offers rewarding experiences. The 120-kilometre Lamayuru-Padum trail crosses eight high mountain passes, a 12-day odyssey that offers a demanding journey that unveils some of Ladakh’s most scintillating landscapes. In 2013, I embarked on this dramatic trek, choosing a formidable yet deeply rewarding route into the region.

Mountain settlements on towering granite walls, grace the route. Wind-eroded spires ascend from valleys through which glistening rivers and streams weave. Along this arduous trail, Ladakh’s warm and welcoming residents are gracious hosts, and homestays are a delightful opportunity to pause and rest along the way.

Massive tectonic forces, and the croding powers of wind have wrought a magical effect on Ladakh and Zanskar. The Zanskar range owes its origin to a slice of the pre-historic Tethys ocean floor sliding under Tibet when the Indian and Eurasian plates started colliding some fifty million years ago. High velocity winds have since shaped the treeless land into open-air galleries of wild rock formations, scoured through with deep rivers running along tectonic fault lines. Few inhabited regions areas remote as Zanskar and traversing eight high passes over nine days would surely classify as a challenging route. But then the beauty of a mountain wilderness is often directly related to the remoteness of the place. This classic traverse from Ladakh to Zanskar has to be one of the great Himalayan trails.

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